Knowing how to safely use Standardized Interactive Climbing Training Boards can make you stronger and add more fun to your gym climbing routine.
As the long-awaited debut of Olympic climbing draws near, the sport’s popularity continues to grow.This surge is no surprise to anyone who’s experienced the uncommon assortment of benefits climbing offers.
New climbing gyms are popping up in all corners of the world, and many cities now offer multiple facilities for local enthusiasts to choose from. As of 2021,Denver has nine。
攀登’s rapid rise has coincided with a slew of game-changing innovations in training methods and accessories. As the market for climbing and training gear expands, new and existing companies have discovered a viable ecosystem for introducing exciting new products.
Among the new developments in climbing training equipment, one specific category of tools has made the biggest impact of all: the Standardized Interactive Climbing Training Board, or SICTB.
Essentially, SICTBs are small climbing walls designed to target weaknesses, increase raw power, build finger strength, and break through performance plateaus. These boards are compact, overhanging, and littered with an eye-catching assortment of LED-lit climbing holds.
Below are five companies, each with a different approach to SICTB training. Read on for how they work and how they might help you become a stronger climber.
Standardized Interactive Climbing Training Board (SICTB)
经过now, most climbers will at least be semifamiliar with SICTBs. In a gym, you can often find SICTBs tucked away in a corner or designated room.
Climbers using these boards are heard before they’re seen, as loud and guttural power grunts from active users are common. Currently, a number of companies are selling SICTBs: Moon, Kilter, Tension, Grasshopper, and Lattice.
As a training device, SICTBs can seem intimidating and complicated. In this article, we’ll break down everything to know about SICTBs and answer common questions many curious climbers have.
We’ll clarify who should and should not train on SICTBs, and we’ll provide some basic strategies for structuring an SICTB climbing session. We’ll also explain the differences between the different SICTBs on the market today.
For many decades, elite climbers have recognized that limiting factors such as power and finger strength can be targeted and improved using specialized training implements. John Gill, considered by many to be the father of modern bouldering, applied his background in gymnastics to his passion for rock climbing.
吉尔训练使用上拉杆和体操运动员戒指，他越来越强大地撤下feats of strength今天仍然追捧。这些包括一臂上拉和前杠杆。
久之前V-scale for boulderingwas created for measuring the difficulty of boulder problems, Gill managed to climb boulders up to V11.
Toward the end of the 20th century, free climbing and sport climbing further accelerated climbers’ interest in cutting-edge training methods. Before climbing gyms dotted every major city in the country, small groups of climbershand-built crude climbing wallsand began to experiment.
In climbing hubs such as Salt Lake City, Sheffield, England, and Nuremberg, Germany, bands of eager climbers constructed early versions of the training boards that have become universal in today’s climbingsphere. In an age before commercial climbing companies, home walls (orwoodies) were outfitted with rough wooden holds and drilled pockets.
Original prototypes of such devices are now displayed proudly in modern gyms such as咖啡馆牛皮纸and势头攀爬。Although these first-generation woodies were simple and unpolished, they laid the foundation for the high-tech SICTBs climbers enjoy today.
In the late 1980s, Ben Moon was frustrated with a lack of adequate training facilities and soon built multiple wooden training boards in Sheffield, England. Moon’s homemade walls eventually became a mini climbing gym calledThe School Room，登山者可以在月球木制创作上作为成员注册。
In 2004, Moon had the idea to build a standardized training board that could be replicated all over the world. Based on the walls of The School Room, the new MoonBoard allowed climbers around the world to test themselves against the same challenging movements.
All modern SICTBs are modeled after the original MoonBoard concept. While other board makers have tweaked the idea with fresh hold sets and technology, many consider the MoonBoard the genesis of the entire SICTB movement.
Now, MoonBoards and other SICTBs exist in gyms and private residences around the world. Smartphone apps allow users to interact, track their progress, set new problems, and upload climbing footage to social media.
The story of SICTBs is rich with inventiveness and lore, but perhaps the greatest chapters are yet to come.
Users all over the world installed the MoonBoard Originals according to Moon’s instructions on their own walls and tested themselves against benchmark boulder problems. As climbing training became increasingly popular across the world, more and more people were exposed to the benefits of the MoonBoard.
The MoonBoard as we know it today came along in 2016, when the company launched a new website, interactive app, and lightup LED system. Via Bluetooth, MoonBoard users can connect directly to the board and select a problem, and then the LED lights beneath the corresponding holes will illuminate.
The lights help climbers follow the route without having to memorize the sequence. After attempting or sending a specific problem, users can log their ascent in the app and vote on its quality.
Many of the MoonBoard’s iconic features, from the LED system to the interactive app, have inspired other SICTB companies. Currently, most of the major SICTB makers offer standardized hold sets, illuminated holds, and an interactive app. The entire realm of SICTBs should consider the MoonBoard the blueprint that paved the way for all the rest.
How MoonBoards Work
Today, three different MoonBoard hold sets are available: Masters 2016, Masters 2017, and Masters 2019. All three hold sets have their own range of problems and benchmarks, and all three are currently available for order and installation.
Although each set has distinct shapes and aesthetics, all three options maintain the classic MoonBoard style of powerful, finger-intensive movements. Because it’s the oldest, the 2016 Masters hold set currently has the largest database with the most established problems — more than 18,000!
If used too early in a climber’s progression, MoonBoard training may lead to injury. For the same reason, it’s always advised to rest adequately in between MoonBoard sessions.
攀岩健身房和私人住宅的船工板可供安装。看看月球板网站for a full line of products and more information.
- Dimensions:8′ x 10.3′ (Standard MoonBoard)
- Body control and core tension improvement
- Footwork training
- Tons of problems and benchmarks in database
- Small holds and demanding style can lead to injury
The founders of Tension Climbing — Will Anglin, Ben Spannuth, and Gabe Adams — attended college together and enjoyed coming up with creative ways to train.
Thanks to the trio’s collective experience in climbing and machining, Tension has quickly grown into one of the most popular training equipment companies in the climbing world. From the beginning, Tension has carved out a niche with their all-wood training tools.
The three founders believe that wood is the best possible material for training tools. Those who have used Tension products will know the texture of wood is softer than plastic and less abrasive on the skin. As Tension continues to grow as a company, its commitment to wood is stronger than ever.
主要的SICTB公司,紧张是唯一的one that uses wooden holds exclusively. Although wooden holds are not the only unique characteristic of the Tension Board, they are certainly the most eye-catching feature.
Compared to the abrasive holds of the MoonBoard, the wooden holds of the Tension Board feel soft and smooth. Many climbers compare Tension’s hold texture to highly polished limestone.
While the slick holds can be frustrating to get used to, they force you to engage every hold with precision and maintain body tension (hence the company’s name) throughout every move.
Tension Boards are set with a fully symmetrical hold set. Because the left half of the board mirrors the right half, climbers can work both sides of their bodies evenly during sessions.
从the Tension App, a single click will flip any boulder problem onto the other side of the board, allowing both sides of the body to train on the exact same moves.
Some climbers consider the symmetry of the Tension Board to be an unnecessary feature. On the other hand, others find the symmetry helps them identify weaknesses and train accordingly.
Similar to the MoonBoard, the Tension Board utilizes an app to connect climbers to a large database of established problems of all difficulties. LED lights beneath every hold illuminate via Bluetooth to allow climbers to follow the path of their selected problem.
Unfortunately, the LED lights sit beneath the hold and are often difficult to see while climbing above them. The position of the lights is mostly an inconvenience while onsighting.
With holds by far the most comfortable in the SICTB game, the Tension Board presents a well-designed training tool that offers a clear path to improving as a climber.
While the Tension Board database is quite vast, it isn’t as expansive as MoonBoard’s. Still, most climbers will never exhaust the entire Tension Board database — and even if you do, it is still an effective board to train on.
Some climbers complain that Tension’s app can be buggy, especially for Android users. The layout of the app is shared by two other SICTB companies: Grasshopper and Kilter.
The Tension Board comes in two sizes, 10 feet x 8 feet and 12 feet x 8 feet. In the app, climbers can select from various different wall angles and the grades of the problems in the database will adjust automatically.
- Dimensions:10′ x 8′ or 12′ x 8′
- Beginner, intermediate, and expert climbers
- Identifying and working on weaknesses
- Training power and power endurance
- Beginner-friendly thanks to larger wooden holds
- Symmetrical design for training both sides of the body equally
- Holds are durable and high quality
- LED lights can be hard to see while climbing on wall
- Symmetrical design limits the variety of possible movements
What Is a Kilter Board?
The Kilter Board was designed by Ian Powell and Jackie Hueftle, owners of climbing hold companyKiltergrips。In the late 1990s, Powell founded his first climbing hold company, eGrips, and Hueftle has worked in the climbing industry for decades.
With the Kilter Board, the pair has set out to build a next-generation training board featuring fresh technology and a striking aesthetic. With its monochrome holds, innovative lighting system, and enjoyable climbing style, the Kilter Board attracts climbers from across the gym like a magnet.
Even though Kilter uses composite holds instead of wood, your finger skin is less likely to hurt due to the pleasant hold shapes.
Although many climbers appreciate the large and comfy holds of the Kilter Board, others feel a lack of small, fingery holds equates to less effective finger strength training. Kilter is currently working on a range of hold sets that will be tailored specifically to climbers of different levels.
例如,一个V10攀岩者可以选择购买a harder hold set with smaller holds in order to get the most out of the board. However, a V2 climber can purchase an easier hold set with larger holds.
Although this development is still in the works, we appreciate how Kilter recognizes that not all climbers who train will get the most out of the same hold set.
Other SICTBs have long been considered a tool for higher-level climbers only. The Kilter Board is aiming to broaden the accessibility of SICTBs with a diverse lineup of hold sets.
How to Use a Kilter Board
Of the Kilter Board’s many exciting innovations, its lighting system is perhaps the most game-changing. Every hold on the board has a semi-transparent base, which means illuminated holds are visible from any angle. This lighting configuration solves the issue many climbers have with the Tension Board and MoonBoard, both of which use an LED beneath each hold.
The Kilter Board’s original layout is currently available in three sizes: 12 feet x 12 feet, 8 feet x 12 feet, and 7 feet x 10 feet. On Kilter’s app, users can select the size of their wall, and the database of existing climbs for that specific wall size will fill in automatically. The larger Kilter Board sizes, like the 12×12, make other SICTBs seem quite small and compact in comparison.
The Kilter app also includes a database of “sport routes,” which are longer preset routes graded on the优胜美地十进制系统而不是V梁尺寸。
With plenty of new innovations and hold sets surely on the way, the Kilter Board represents the present and future of inclusive yet effective board training. If you’re considering installing one of these, put it on an adjustable wall — the Kilter Board can’t fulfill its full potential on a fixed angled wall.
- Dimensions:12′ x 12′, 8′ x 12′, 7′ x 10′
- Climbers of all levels
- Training for super steep routes and boulders
- Power endurance and pure endurance training
- Accessible for climbers of all levels
- Comfortable, ergonomic hold shapes
- High-visibility innovative lighting system
- Not as effective for pure finger strength training
- Original layout is slightly lacking in hold shape diversity
- Lighting can become difficult to see when holds are covered in chalk
What Is a Grasshopper Climbing Wall?
Grasshopper was founded by climbing legend Boone Speed and engineer Jeremy Huckins. The founders hold an impressive volume of experience in the climbing industry between them.
速度和Huckins一直在爬me for a long time, and their combined skillsets make for a promising young company that has now entered the SICTB market.
蚱蜢爬故事不同于再保险st of the companies in the SICTB realm. Originally, Grasshopper set out to design an adjustable climbing wall that could be shipped directly to climbers.
Although the company has since developed its own hold set, Grasshopper continues to focus on the adjustable wall component of the SICTB equation. For this reason, Grasshopper walls are often found with hold sets made by other SICTB companies installed on them.
The folks behind Grasshopper cleverly observed that designing, building, and selling high-end adjustable climbing walls is an untapped niche. While other SICTB companies do sell freestanding walls that customers can install at home, the wall design innovations from Grasshopper are currently in a league of their own.
Currently, Grasshopper offers three different adjustable walls. The Ninja 2 is the most compact option with an 8′ x 10′ climbing surface. The Ninja is available as a fully freestanding wall that can be moved around with minimal effort. The midsize option is the Master at 8′ x 12′. Finally, the Grandmaster is a large 12′ x 12′ wall.
Every Grasshopper wall can be customized thoroughly upon purchase. The company will work with potential buyers to determine which wall and configuration will work best in the available space. All three sizes can be ordered to accommodate Moon, Tension, or Kilter Board hold sets.
How to Use Grasshopper Climbing Walls
The Flow holds are large and beginner-friendly, and the Engage holds are progression-focused for intermediate climbers. And the Power holds are small and fierce with expert climbers in mind. Many boards installed in commercial climbing gyms are outfitted with all three sets, which maximizes the climbing potential of both the board and the app.
应用程序本身在布局中与张力和杆应用类似。它直观且易于学习 - 特别是对于已经熟悉培训委员会应用的登山者。
Like Kilter, the Grasshopper Climbing app’s database includes longer climbs graded as sport routes instead of boulders. These routes offer more endurance-focused training and increase the overall versatility of the board.
A self-described “innovations company,” Grasshopper continues to cook up new concepts for the next generation of climbing training tools. We love that the Grasshopper’s LED lighting system illuminates the center of each hold. This clever detail allows climbers to see which holds are illuminated while actively climbing on the wall.
Via social media, the company has recently teased a training board with a built-in computer that will change the wall’s angle while a person is climbing on it. This feature would allow climbers to customize their training sessions and use the Grasshopper to mimic the terrain of their outdoor projects. This feature is not available yet, but we hope it will be introduced in the near future.
All in all, Grasshopper is a modern climbing company that constantly aims to inject new ideas into the always-changing world of climbing training.
- ninja：8'x 10'
- Master: 8′ x 12′
- Grandmaster: 12′ x 12′
- Climbers looking for well-built adjustable walls
- Climbers of all levels from beginner to expert
- Adjustable Grasshopper walls work with holds made by other companies
- Fun and effective for climbers of all levels
格子训练was founded by experienced climbing coachesollie tor和tom randall。格局是公司利用其攀登评估和执教培训计划的众多产品之一。
How to Use a Lattice Board
Many high-profile climbers have used Lattice assessments and training plans to break through plateaus and achieve long-term goals.Alex Honnoldleaned on Lattice during his eventually successful quest to climb his first 5.14d.
虽然格子板没有提供其他SICTBS所做的无穷无尽的路线和博尔德问题，但这从未如此。对于希望更好地了解自己的能力并在停滞期间追求进步的登山者来说，格子训练can provide the answers。
- Dimensions:大约10'x 10'为经典格板
- Assessing strengths and weaknesses
- Systematic assessment and training protocol designed by qualified sources
- 帮助登山者在他们应该如何培养一个磨练d what to focus on
- Well-designed, well-made tool
- Does not provide the versatility for general climbing that other SICTBS do
Training on an SICTB works. Quite simply, these compact training tools can offer a quick way to gain functional strength and break through plateaus. Also, an SICTB session can be fun and socially engaging.
However, SICTB training can put a lot of strain on the body and potentially increase your likelihood of suffering an injury. For example, a 40-degree overhanging Moon Board is very finger intensive to climb and not ideal for beginners.
Generally, new climbers will get the most out of simply climbing for fun without worrying too much about niche training tools. Still, as SICTBs evolve and become more popular, they are likely to cater to climbers of all levels and abilities.
Some existing SICTB options, like the Grasshopper adjustable board and hold sets, have been designed with all levels of climbers in mind. Grasshopper’s “Flow” holds are designed to help climbers learn fundamental movement skills and can be enjoyed at the 5.8/V0 level.
Standardized Interactive Climbing Training Boards offer a concentrated form of climbing training. SICTBs are all about efficiency. Compared to a standard session in a full-sized climbing gym, SICTB session require less space and often less time to complete a full workout.
There are no “filler” moves in between hard moves, and most SICTBs are designed to boost raw power and strength. Every move in an SICTB session should require full effort and engagement.
How to Use a SICTB: The Basics
Because SICTB sessions work best with maximum effort, it’s crucial to thoroughly warm up beforehand. If the board you’re training on is adjustable, it may be possible to lessen the angle and warm on right there on the board.
如果没有，你会想找到一个健身房的另一个区域来热身或填补壁上的预热序列。许多great climbing warmup suggestionsare available for free.
Before you actually begin your SICTB session, decide what you want to get out of it. Are you working on pure power or power endurance? Are you training for the crux sequence of your outdoor project? Is finger strength your focus?
Most SICTBs are Bluetooth-enabled and can be operated using a smartphone app. These apps are free to download and use, and will give you access to a database of problems that you can use to structure your workout.
Every app will ask you to input some information about your board before use. If the board has LED lights installed, they will illuminate when you select a problem or route.
During your session, you can log your ascents into the app, which will help you track your progress over time. Additionally, most apps will allow you to set and submit new boulder problems and routes into the existing database.
This option tends to be much cheaper than purchasing wall components directly from an SICTB company, as the wall itself is usually the most expensive element of such a project.
No matter how you access a Standardized Interactive Climbing Training Board, you will surely find they are innovative and effective tools. SICTBs are the present and future of climbing training. Plus, they’re super fun to use.