每一个登山者都需要一个束缚，每个人都需要一个手铐装置。没有一个，它不可能安全爬升，你可能被迫诉诸计划B - 又名博尔明。
In short, climbers use belay devices to manage slack in the rope,catch their partner in case of a fall, and lower them safely to the ground. When entering the sport, a belay device is one of thefirst pieces of gear that new climbers should purchase。
We’ve sorted our recommendations into specific categories to make it easy for you to identify the belay device that best meets your needs.
The first iteration of the Petzl GriGri ($22) debuted in 1991. Since then, this versatile device has been widely considered the world standard for belay devices.
对于健身房攀爬和单级演出和体育咆哮，Gragri可以做到你需要的一切。介绍时，GRIGRI（100美元）是第一个（100美元）辅助刹车确保设备on the market. Its effective design has only slightly changed in the years since.
There have been four versions of the GriGri to date. In 2019, Petzl released the newest version, and we think it is the best overall belay device available in 2021. The device is compatible with ropes measuring 8.5-11 mm.
Compared to manual tube-style devices like the Black Diamond ATC-XP, the GriGri is a far more comfortable option for lengthy belays and projecting.
Like with many assisted-braking belay devices, a climber can’t load the GriGri with two strands of rope at once, which limits its rappelling capabilities. The GriGri works well for belaying the following climber from above. However, it has limited application for multipitch climbing due to its single-strand design.
While the GriGri is by far the most common belay device of today, it is not the easiest to learn how to use. Climbers must learn how to use their GriGris from a qualified instructor. No matter their experience level, all climbers can learn how to use a GriGri — but they must be willing to put in the time required to master safe practices.
Currently, Petzl offers two GriGri styles. Our pick for best overall is the 2019 version of the GriGri, which retails for $100. Petzl also continues to sell theGRIGRI +.($130), which was introduced in 2017 and features wear-resistant components and an anti-panic feature.
Many climbers find the anti-panic features to be excessive and inconvenient. Both options are good, but we prefer the newest GriGri.
- Great for single-pitch projecting
- Effective for top-managed belaying
- More expensive than other options
Best Budget Belay Device:Black Diamond ATC-XP
The main feature that sets the ATC-XP apart from standard manual tube-style devices is the set of toothed grooves inside both of its tubes. These grooves increase friction on the rope while in use, which makes it slightly easier to control speed while lowering a climber or rappelling. Thanks to these grooves, a belayer can lock off the device and hold a resting climbing with significantly less effort.
Many climbing gyms now require that all belayers use an assisted-braking device, which rules out ATC belay devices. We still recommend this device for its time-tested strengths, but buyers should know that these devices are not accepted everywhere.
Ropes measuring 7.7-11 mm can be used with the ATC-XP, and it can handle single- and double-rope rappels with ease. In the affordable and basic manual tube-style belay device category, the ATC-XP is our favorite.
- Weight:2.3 oz.
- Good friction control thanks to built-in teeth
- No assisted-braking feature
- Some climbing gyms do not allow the ATC-XP
- Uncomfortable to use during long belays when the climber is weighting the rope
On the DMM Pivot, this clip-in point can swivel (or pivot), which is very helpful in certain multipitch scenarios. Ropes measuring 7.5-11 mm work with the Pivot.
With the Pivot, the swiveling clip-in point allows you to easily change the angle of the device and lower your climber safely. This feature can also be useful in a rescue or emergency.
Other belay devices, like thePetzl Grigri.轻松,还可以降低一个追随者。然而,届e Pivot is a tube-style device that can be used for double-rope repelling. The GriGri belay device can only be used to rappel a single strand. For this reason, the Pivot has an advantage over similar devices like the ATC Guide and is especially handy in a multipitch setting.
- Weight:2.5 oz.
- Feeds rope smoothly
- More expensive than similar devices
- Lacks assisted-braking mode for optimal lead belaying
最佳的IT - 所有的Belay设备：Edelrid Giga Jul
This highly versatile belay device is a true “quiver of one.” The Giga Jul combines manual tube-style simplicity with assisted braking, top-managed belaying, and double-rope rappelling. Whether you’re at the gym, the crag, or three pitches up on an all-day adventure route, the Giga Jul ($53) will have you covered.
This combination of features is especially valuable in a multipitch setting. The Giga Jul eliminates the need to bring an extra tube-style device up a multipitch route to use strictly for rappelling. In Edelrid’s words, “It’s the best of both worlds.”
Steel inserts within the tubes of the Giga Jul resist wear from the rope and increase the lifespan of the device. This dual-material construction allows the device to combine the lightweight quality of aluminum with the abrasion resistance of steel.
Operating the slider of the Giga Jul does take some getting used to, especially when transitioning between belaying a follower from above and belaying a leader via your harness.
Giga Jul需要更多的步骤来使这种过渡而不是Petzl Grigri。尽管如此，千兆杰尔仍然有时的双绳式速降的额外效益。
- Weight:4.3 oz.
- Slightly heavier than similar devices
Buyer’s Guide: How to Choose a Belay Device
There are all kinds of belay devices on the market, and it isn’t easy to figure out which one to buy. On this list, we have compiled our favorite devices available in 2021. Our selections represent many hours spent handling all kinds of belay devices and using them in a wide range of climbing scenarios.
Although there are at least 25 different belay devices manufactured today, climbers should be aware of three major categories: active assisted braking, passive assisted braking, and manual tube-style braking.
In this guide, we thoroughly cover all three categories, and much more. This guide contains all of the information that you need to identify which belay device is right for you.
For single-pitch belaying (especially during long projecting sessions), active assisted belay devices are great because they require very little effort from the belayer while the climber is hanging on the rope.
Passive Assisted Braking
被动辅助刹车装置利用特定的geometry in their design to automatically catch a climber in case of a fall. These devices generally do not have any moving parts, but they can be equally effective for maximizing belayer comfort during long projecting sessions.
由于其简单的设计，它们往往比主动辅助制动装置更轻且便宜。在这个名单上，Edelrid Giga Julis an example of a passive assisted-braking device.
Manual tube-style belay devices have been around longer than assisted-braking devices. These devices create a double bend in the rope, which generates enough friction for a belayer to easily catch a climber by holding the braking strand of the rope in the brake position.
像辅助制动装置，使用手动管的一个必须总是maintain a grip on the braking strand. In fact, this all-important rule is even more crucial with manual tube-style devices.
For many decades, manual tube-style devices were the most popular type of belay device. Now, more climbers are transitioning to assisted-braking devices.
Some climbing gyms no longer allow belayers to use manual tube-style devices. Still, this style of belay device tends to be the cheapest and lightest option, so beginner climbers may want to consider starting with one. On this list, theBlack Diamond ATC-XPand theDMM枢轴是手动管式设备。
For multipitch climbing, you’ll often need a device that can manage double-rope rappels to return to the ground safely.
可以处理两个股线的装置也可以使用双重或双绳索的爬行员 - 一种用于各种形式的传统和攀冰的公共系统。而且，容纳两个绳索的自动阻挡装置可以在多点设置中同时使用两个追随者。
Many assisted-braking devices are not compatible with two strands of rope. However, theEdelrid Giga Julis a highly versatile option that offers both assisted-braking and dual-strand capability. This device can rappel, belay a leader with ease, and do pretty much everything you need it to in a multipitch setting.
Again, it is wise to check the diameter range of a belay device before purchasing. Using a rope with a diameter beyond the suggested range can be extremely dangerous.
Belaying From Above
许多Belay设备能够从上面直接夹住锚点并使以下登山者。一些辅助制动装置，如GriGrican be used to belay from above.
Manual tube-style belay devices in guide mode are considered “auto-blocking” because they will automatically pinch the climbing rope in case the follower falls. Still, the belayer must总是maintain contact with the brake strand.
在这个名单上，DMM枢轴is a manual tube-style device that also has a built-in guide hole and can be used to belay from above. Belay devices are used in guide mode when they are clipped directly to an anchor and are used to belay from above.
Belay devices range in price from around $15 to well over $100. Generally, active assisted-braking devices are the most expensive, and manual-style tube devices are the least expensive. The devices that we included on this list offer good value.
Manual tube-style belay devices may be the cheapest, but they are also not allowed in certain climbing gyms, which may lessen their value for some climbers. Versatile devices like theEdelrid Giga Julare functional in many different situations, and versatility adds to a device’s overall value.
All of the devices on this list are well-designed and well-built. Even with regular use, a belay device should last for multiple years. The Edelrid Giga Jul has built-in steel inserts that resist abrasion from the rope and extend the life of the device.
What’s the Best Belay Device for Multipitch Climbing?
We love the multipitch-specific innovation that went into the design of theDMM枢轴。该设备允许您安全轻松降低追随者。
然而,届e Pivot does not offer assisted braking when belaying the leader, which many climbers may consider to be a drawback.
All belay devices work by attaching the belayer to the rope. They use friction to keep the climber safe and catch them if they fall.
How Do You Attach a Belay Device to Your Harness?
由于这种设备的自动备份，许多登山者认为辅助制动装置是“更安全”。然而，每种风格的手套设备必须与常量保健和警惕一起使用 - 即使是具有辅助制动功能的警惕。在实际吹延登山者之前，每个新的束缚都应该寻求彻底的指导。