Best Of
最佳的手铐设备

最佳攀岩包带设备为2021

每一个登山者都需要一个束缚,每个人都需要一个手铐装置。没有一个,它不可能安全爬升,你可能被迫诉诸计划B - 又名博尔明。

In short, climbers use belay devices to manage slack in the rope,catch their partner in case of a fall, and lower them safely to the ground. When entering the sport, a belay device is one of thefirst pieces of gear that new climbers should purchase

市场上有很多伟大的选择,并决定购买哪一个可能会令人困惑。在此列表中,我们已编制我们为2021年的最佳Belay设备的建议。

We’ve sorted our recommendations into specific categories to make it easy for you to identify the belay device that best meets your needs.

在此列表结束时,我们已包含一个全面的Belay设备buyer’s guide在那里您将找到明智购买所需的所有信息。在本指南中,我们描述了各种常见风格的Belay设备,并解释了它们是最佳用途的方式。

要了解更多关于我们最佳攀爬装备的挑选,请查看best climbing shoes of 2021and thebest bouldering crash pads of 2021

滚动到查看我们所有推荐的购买或跳转到您要查找的类别:

最佳攀岩包带设备为2021

总体上最好:Petzl Grigri.

Petzl Grigri

The first iteration of the Petzl GriGri ($22) debuted in 1991. Since then, this versatile device has been widely considered the world standard for belay devices.

许多其他制造商已经基于Greigri的Belay设备设计。但经过30年的存在,GRIGRI继续发光。

对于健身房攀爬和单级演出和体育咆哮,Gragri可以做到你需要的一切。介绍时,GRIGRI(100美元)是第一个(100美元)辅助刹车确保设备on the market. Its effective design has only slightly changed in the years since.

GRIGRI使用内部机制来夹紧爬绳,只要绳索通过装置太快地拉过来。例如,在铅落的情况下,绳子在GRIGRI上向上拉动并抓住绳索,捕获秋天。在Grigri的领先之后,许多其他辅助制动装置现在利用了类似的设计。

There have been four versions of the GriGri to date. In 2019, Petzl released the newest version, and we think it is the best overall belay device available in 2021. The device is compatible with ropes measuring 8.5-11 mm.

在突出单音高攀爬途径的长期会话期间,GRIGRI尤其是舒适的。登山者可以长时间悬挂在绳子上,并且相框可以舒适地等待,而无需主动挤压绳索或产生张力。

Compared to manual tube-style devices like the Black Diamond ATC-XP, the GriGri is a far more comfortable option for lengthy belays and projecting.

Like with many assisted-braking belay devices, a climber can’t load the GriGri with two strands of rope at once, which limits its rappelling capabilities. The GriGri works well for belaying the following climber from above. However, it has limited application for multipitch climbing due to its single-strand design.

While the GriGri is by far the most common belay device of today, it is not the easiest to learn how to use. Climbers must learn how to use their GriGris from a qualified instructor. No matter their experience level, all climbers can learn how to use a GriGri — but they must be willing to put in the time required to master safe practices.

Currently, Petzl offers two GriGri styles. Our pick for best overall is the 2019 version of the GriGri, which retails for $100. Petzl also continues to sell theGRIGRI +.($130), which was introduced in 2017 and features wear-resistant components and an anti-panic feature.

Many climbers find the anti-panic features to be excessive and inconvenient. Both options are good, but we prefer the newest GriGri.

  • Weight:6.1盎司。
Pros:
  • Great for single-pitch projecting
  • Effective for top-managed belaying
  • 高度耐用
  • 平滑降低
  • 处理各种绳索直径
Cons:
  • More expensive than other options
  • 不兼容双绳毛

检查价格t REI检查价格t Amazon

Best Budget Belay Device:Black Diamond ATC-XP

black diamond atc-xp

这个简单的手套装置是登山者已经使用了数十年的标准管式装置的变化。虽然它不是市场上的绝对最便宜的Belay设备选项,但我们认为它可以作为一个相对实惠的选择提供了很大的价值。

The main feature that sets the ATC-XP apart from standard manual tube-style devices is the set of toothed grooves inside both of its tubes. These grooves increase friction on the rope while in use, which makes it slightly easier to control speed while lowering a climber or rappelling. Thanks to these grooves, a belayer can lock off the device and hold a resting climbing with significantly less effort.

虽然ATC-XP是我们为最好的预算包围设备的选择,但它也是学习屏风基础知识作为新登山者的好选择。由于其简单耐用的施工,这种设备往往持续多年,即使是经常使用。

许多人仍然与ATC-XP这样的非合格制动装置仍然存在。然而,攀岩世界正在慢慢淘汰这种风格的包套装置,就像图8的包裹装置。

Many climbing gyms now require that all belayers use an assisted-braking device, which rules out ATC belay devices. We still recommend this device for its time-tested strengths, but buyers should know that these devices are not accepted everywhere.

Ropes measuring 7.7-11 mm can be used with the ATC-XP, and it can handle single- and double-rope rappels with ease. In the affordable and basic manual tube-style belay device category, the ATC-XP is our favorite.

  • Weight:2.3 oz.
Pros:
  • Affordable
  • Good friction control thanks to built-in teeth
  • 易于学习如何使用
Cons:
  • No assisted-braking feature
  • Some climbing gyms do not allow the ATC-XP
  • Uncomfortable to use during long belays when the climber is weighting the rope

检查价格t Backcountry检查价格t Black Diamond

最适合多点攀登:DMM枢轴

DMM枢轴

对于多点爬升,您将想要一个自动阻挡的手套设备,让您可以直接从锚点关闭您的追随者。在市场上的许多自动阻挡手套设备中,达姆枢转(35美元)是我们最喜欢的,这归功于少数优秀的特征和特色。

当直接夹持到锚时,自动阻挡带状装置处于引导模式,并用来带有以下登山者。对于指导方式工作,设备必须具有单独的金属环,可直接夹住锚点。

On the DMM Pivot, this clip-in point can swivel (or pivot), which is very helpful in certain multipitch scenarios. Ropes measuring 7.5-11 mm work with the Pivot.

当你的追随者爬上一个球场时,他们可能会掉下来,想在距离球场下方,并给出攀登另一个尝试的麻烦部分。在使用引导模式下使用大多数自动阻挡带设备时,降低追随者需要少量棘手和潜在的危险步骤。

With the Pivot, the swiveling clip-in point allows you to easily change the angle of the device and lower your climber safely. This feature can also be useful in a rescue or emergency.

Other belay devices, like thePetzl Grigri.轻松,还可以降低一个追随者。然而,届e Pivot is a tube-style device that can be used for double-rope repelling. The GriGri belay device can only be used to rappel a single strand. For this reason, the Pivot has an advantage over similar devices like the ATC Guide and is especially handy in a multipitch setting.

  • Weight:2.5 oz.
Pros:
  • 创新设计提供了有意义的利益
  • 易于使用
  • Feeds rope smoothly
Cons:
  • More expensive than similar devices
  • Lacks assisted-braking mode for optimal lead belaying

检查价格t Amazon检查价格t Backcountry

最佳的IT - 所有的Belay设备:Edelrid Giga Jul

Edelrid Giga Jul.

This highly versatile belay device is a true “quiver of one.” The Giga Jul combines manual tube-style simplicity with assisted braking, top-managed belaying, and double-rope rappelling. Whether you’re at the gym, the crag, or three pitches up on an all-day adventure route, the Giga Jul ($53) will have you covered.

Giga Jul上的滑动机构允许用户在辅助制动和手动制动模式之间来回切换。这意味着该器件可用于引导毡,具有辅助制动的益处,但它也可用于无挫折的速降。

This combination of features is especially valuable in a multipitch setting. The Giga Jul eliminates the need to bring an extra tube-style device up a multipitch route to use strictly for rappelling. In Edelrid’s words, “It’s the best of both worlds.”

Steel inserts within the tubes of the Giga Jul resist wear from the rope and increase the lifespan of the device. This dual-material construction allows the device to combine the lightweight quality of aluminum with the abrasion resistance of steel.

Operating the slider of the Giga Jul does take some getting used to, especially when transitioning between belaying a follower from above and belaying a leader via your harness.

Giga Jul需要更多的步骤来使这种过渡而不是Petzl Grigri。尽管如此,千兆杰尔仍然有时的双绳式速降的额外效益。

Edelrid以其创新的攀爬装备而闻名,吉祥Jul达到了这一声誉。由于其辅助制动,所有攀岩健身房都会让您使用此设备。Giga Jul的多功能性是无与伦比的。

  • Weight:4.3 oz.
Pros:
  • Versatile
  • 耐磨性和耐用的钢插入物
  • 可负担得起的相对于其他辅助制动装置
  • 处理从7.8-10毫米的各种绳索
Cons:
  • 滑块系统需要学习曲线
  • Slightly heavier than similar devices

检查价格t REI检查价格t Amazon

Buyer’s Guide: How to Choose a Belay Device

There are all kinds of belay devices on the market, and it isn’t easy to figure out which one to buy. On this list, we have compiled our favorite devices available in 2021. Our selections represent many hours spent handling all kinds of belay devices and using them in a wide range of climbing scenarios.

Although there are at least 25 different belay devices manufactured today, climbers should be aware of three major categories: active assisted braking, passive assisted braking, and manual tube-style braking.

In this guide, we thoroughly cover all three categories, and much more. This guide contains all of the information that you need to identify which belay device is right for you.

Belay设备的类型

主动辅助制动

主动辅助制动带装置包含在负载下接合以陷入坠落的移动部件。这些设备往往是最重和最昂贵的手感装置,但它们也有很多好处,非常受欢迎。

For single-pitch belaying (especially during long projecting sessions), active assisted belay devices are great because they require very little effort from the belayer while the climber is hanging on the rope.

虽然这些设备可以帮助您持有并捕捉登山者,但您必须始终保持对绳子的制动束的控制,就像任何其他带有设备一样。在这个名单上,GriGri是主动辅助制动带装置的一个例子。

Passive Assisted Braking

被动辅助刹车装置利用特定的geometry in their design to automatically catch a climber in case of a fall. These devices generally do not have any moving parts, but they can be equally effective for maximizing belayer comfort during long projecting sessions.

由于其简单的设计,它们往往比主动辅助制动装置更轻且便宜。在这个名单上,Edelrid Giga Julis an example of a passive assisted-braking device.

Edelrid Gig Jul
Photo credit:Edelrid

手动管式

Manual tube-style belay devices have been around longer than assisted-braking devices. These devices create a double bend in the rope, which generates enough friction for a belayer to easily catch a climber by holding the braking strand of the rope in the brake position.

像辅助制动装置,使用手动管的一个必须总是maintain a grip on the braking strand. In fact, this all-important rule is even more crucial with manual tube-style devices.

For many decades, manual tube-style devices were the most popular type of belay device. Now, more climbers are transitioning to assisted-braking devices.

Some climbing gyms no longer allow belayers to use manual tube-style devices. Still, this style of belay device tends to be the cheapest and lightest option, so beginner climbers may want to consider starting with one. On this list, theBlack Diamond ATC-XPand theDMM枢轴是手动管式设备。

2股绳索与1

有些带子装置与两条绳子兼容,而其他人只能在一次容纳一个。可以同时容纳两个股线的装置可用于双绳索毛圈。

For multipitch climbing, you’ll often need a device that can manage double-rope rappels to return to the ground safely.

可以处理两个股线的装置也可以使用双重或双绳索的爬行员 - 一种用于各种形式的传统和攀冰的公共系统。而且,容纳两个绳索的自动阻挡装置可以在多点设置中同时使用两个追随者。

Many assisted-braking devices are not compatible with two strands of rope. However, theEdelrid Giga Julis a highly versatile option that offers both assisted-braking and dual-strand capability. This device can rappel, belay a leader with ease, and do pretty much everything you need it to in a multipitch setting.

Rope Diameter

攀爬绳索的直径不同。一根绳子足够强大,不能捕获下降的登山者,而不需要第二绳索。

单绳索可以薄至8.5毫米,厚度为11毫米。在购买Belay设备之前,请确保它与您目前拥有或计划购买的任何绳索兼容。

双轮绳索和双绳均呈直径比单绳稀薄,它们意味着在双绳系统中使用。并非所有的手铐设备都与薄的双绳索兼容。

Again, it is wise to check the diameter range of a belay device before purchasing. Using a rope with a diameter beyond the suggested range can be extremely dangerous.

belay device

Belaying From Above

许多Belay设备能够从上面直接夹住锚点并使以下登山者。一些辅助制动装置,如GriGrican be used to belay from above.

Manual tube-style belay devices in guide mode are considered “auto-blocking” because they will automatically pinch the climbing rope in case the follower falls. Still, the belayer must总是maintain contact with the brake strand.

在这个名单上,DMM枢轴is a manual tube-style device that also has a built-in guide hole and can be used to belay from above. Belay devices are used in guide mode when they are clipped directly to an anchor and are used to belay from above.

Value

Belay devices range in price from around $15 to well over $100. Generally, active assisted-braking devices are the most expensive, and manual-style tube devices are the least expensive. The devices that we included on this list offer good value.

Manual tube-style belay devices may be the cheapest, but they are also not allowed in certain climbing gyms, which may lessen their value for some climbers. Versatile devices like theEdelrid Giga Julare functional in many different situations, and versatility adds to a device’s overall value.

Durability

All of the devices on this list are well-designed and well-built. Even with regular use, a belay device should last for multiple years. The Edelrid Giga Jul has built-in steel inserts that resist abrasion from the rope and extend the life of the device.

所有Belay设备所有者都应该定期检查过多磨损的迹象。退休并更换具有深槽或尖锐边缘的任何装置。

FAQ

哪种Belay设备最好?

On our list, we recommend thePetzl Grigri.as the best overall belay device. However, the best belay device is ultimately the one that meets your needs and budget. TheBlack Diamond ATC-XP是一个坚实的预算选项,Edelrid Giga Jul提供无与伦比的多功能性。

best belay device

What’s the Best Belay Device for Multipitch Climbing?

We love the multipitch-specific innovation that went into the design of theDMM枢轴。该设备允许您安全轻松降低追随者。

然而,届e Pivot does not offer assisted braking when belaying the leader, which many climbers may consider to be a drawback.

Belay设备如何工作?

All belay devices work by attaching the belayer to the rope. They use friction to keep the climber safe and catch them if they fall.

不同类型的Belay设备具有独特的特性,但每个设备都需要贯穿周层,并始终保持与绳子的制动束接触。

How Do You Attach a Belay Device to Your Harness?

锁定攀爬的Carabiner将带子装置连接到Belayer的线束。一旦带有绳索正确地喂养并夹在绳索中,必须固定并仔细检查卡列特上的锁定机构。

保护皮肤装置

什么是最安全的belay设备?

当用完时,Belay设备的质量和安全性更多地涉及人员比包挡装置。在此列表中,只要用户维护最佳实践,每个Belay设备都可以帮助您进行安全攀爬会话。

由于这种设备的自动备份,许多登山者认为辅助制动装置是“更安全”。然而,每种风格的手套设备必须与常量保健和警惕一起使用 - 即使是具有辅助制动功能的警惕。在实际吹延登山者之前,每个新的束缚都应该寻求彻底的指导。

Can You Rappel With a Belay Device?

Most belay devices can be used to rappel, but some models are more versatile than others. If you plan to use your belay device to rappel more than belay, be sure to purchase a device that is compatible with both double- and single-rope rappel, like theATC-XP或者Edelrid Giga Jul


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